El cocíu que se come «d’atras p’alantre»

Cocíu de garbanzos. Foto: Tripadvisor

Al viaxeiru que s’achega a Llión siempre-ye resulta chamadeiru’l xeitu y orden no qu’en dalgunos llugares comemos el cocíu de garbanzos, principiando pula xixa, despuéis las llegumes y terminando pula sopa del propiu cocíu, dalgu que n’outros llugares d’España ou Portugal se fa de maneira contraria: primeiru la sopa y pa rematar la carne.

Y onque la popularidá y la buena fama d’esta forma de comer siempre la llevóu’l cocíu maragatu, en Cabreira tamién damos habida cuenta d’esta peculiar costume.

¿Cocíu napoleónicu?

Esisten mueitas lliendas y teorías qu’intentan esplicar el porquéi d’esta diferencia a la de comer esti prestosu pratu. Cúntase que no siegru XIX, cuando las tropas de Napoleón invadieran España, houbo dalgunos llugares maragatos onde sitioron a los paisanos. Dizse que las tropas francesas asaltaban las casas y arrampuñaban cuna comida qu’houbiera. Pur esu, cunta la llienda que los maragatos comían primeiro las nutritivas carnes cocídas, las que rialmente chenaban el banduyu, deixando pa los franceses invasores la esleida sopa.

Seya que nou, outra esplicación mueito más creyíble yía la que s’esplica en boca de los mirmos maragatos, que faciendo honor del sou pasáu arrieiru, cuntan cúmu los d’antias tenían de facer grandes trayectos nas suas rutas comerciales. Nesos viaxes siempre llevaban unas cimbreiras de madeira bien curiosas que tenían forma circulare. Neillas llevaban xixa de cochu cocida, que podía conservase asina sin estropiase pur varios días. La xixa comíase fría, pur supuestu, peru p’añedir calor al estómagu y calecer el cuerpu, los arrieiros remataban el yantar cun una sopa calentina que tomaban na posada ou mesón qu’houbiera pul caminu de la sua ruta.

Un dixestivu bien cabreirés

Tamién hai una versión cabreiresa pa esplicar esta maneira tan propia de cumer el cocíu, y que n’outros llaos nun se da. Aquesta yía bien humilde y senciella: El duru trabayu del campu, la llabranza de la tierra, la siega, la maya, etcétera…  xeneraba mueita fame y la necesidá de llevar dalgu sólidu al estómagu.  Nesta situación, l’aportación de las tan necesarias proteínas que la xixa apurría, prevalecía sobre la toma de la sabrosa sopa de cocíu. Había que calmar la fame. Nesi contestu, mieu güelu maternu, fornés de ñacencia que tenía la sabiduría de los d’antias, namás dicía lo siguiente, “que la sopa la tomaba siempre a la fin pa cubrir los buracos que la xixa deixaba no banduyu”.

Y quiciás mieu gulicu nun diba tan escamináu; yía bien cuñocida l’afición asiática, sobremaneira na melecina tradicional china, pur la toma de líquidos calientes, en forma de té, sopa, ou namás l’augua solica pero calentina. Y yía que’l líquidu caliente despuéis de cualesquier comida yía bien beneficiosu pa facer la dixestión. Amás, yía hidratante, favorez la desintosicación del cuerpu y favorez el movimientu intestinal. Sí, lus ñuesos güelos atesouraban una rica sabiduría popular, qu’amás ora na actualidá, yia recuñocida desde los ámbitos de la melecina y la ciencia moderna.

El toque italo-asiáticu

Una aportación indudable a esti pratu yía la de los fideos que se cocinan cuna augua de coción de los garbanzos. Onque los fideos nos chegoron desde Italia, el sou orixen yía xenuinamente chinu, y sobremaneira el xeitu de cumelos na sopa.

A Llión los fideos nun chegoron hasta la década de los años 50 del siegru XX. D’aquella, había artesanos que diban puebru pur puebru fabricando los fideos pur encargu naqueillas casas nas que disponían de farina y podían dase’l luxu de pagar pur eillo. En Cabreira, había un paisanu de Quintaniella de Llousada que tamién los facía. Chamábanlu “Trincáu”, y yiera el dueñu d’una tienda de comestibles que tamién facía las veces de tabierna. Pulo que se ve, na Guerra Civil cuñeciéu a un soldáu italianu que-ye vendiéu una máquina pa facer los fideos. Cun esto qu’aprendiéu a facelos, y pasóu mueitos años vendiéndolos na sua tienda de Quintaniella, mueito primeiro que n’outros llugares onde nin se conocían.

Los ingredientes

  • 250 gramos de garbanzos.
  • 1 Chourizu.
  • 200 gramos de tocinu.
  • 1 Morciella.
  • 1 Güesu de xamón, 1 pata y 2 oureyas de cochu.
  • 1 Repollu
  • 1 Pataca.
  • 1 Cenahoria (la receta antigua nun llevaba cenahoria, pus antias nun se cultivaba en Cabreira).
  • 2 puñadicos de fideos.
  • Sal.
  • Augua.

Ellaboración

Los garbanzos pónense a remueyu desde’l día anterior xuntu cuno güesu de xamón, la pata y las oureyas.

Quítase l’augua onde se tuviera a remueyu y nuna perola metemos toda la carne, los embutíos y los garbanzos. Échaise-yes augua llimpia hasta cubrilos y cuécense a pouco fuegu pur tres horas. Mientras está cociendo vamos quitando la espuma y grasa sobrante.

N’outra pota cocemos la pataca xuntu conas verduras. Esta coción va tardar más ou menos una hora.

Cuando yá tengamos cocíos los garbanzos, retiramos l’agua y cun eilla facemos una sopa de fideos. D’esta forma yá estaría toda la comida cocinada, solo faltaría sirvire.
Primeiro sirvimos nuna fuente’l chourizu, el toucinu, la morciella, la pata y las oureyas. Despuéis, n’outra fuente ponemos la pataca cuno repollu y la cenahoria. Y pa rematare, cumu bien dixeramos antias, sirvimos la sopa de fideos.

¡Buen proveitu!

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